Descaling a Noritz tankless water heater

Today we’re going to show  you how to descale your tankless water  heater i did a lot of research on  youtube to see what kind of information  was out there before i decided to  produce our own video on this subject  and i found a lot of bad information so  i’m hopefully going to i’m going to cut  through some of that bad information and  take you right to the proper  instructions and way to descale a lowes tankless water heater and i’ll start by  saying that not all tasks that we do on  these videos are homeowner type tasks so  don’t use these as a substitute to  hiring a professional if you aren’t 100%  comfortable with the tasks that.

You see  on our videos please don’t try them  because you can you know hurt yourself  or cause damage to your property and so  on okay the first step to descale the  tankless unit is to determine what what  is the make and model number of the unit  and a lot of people are going to ask why  I don’t know I have no idea how do I  find that information out what’s a good  question  on the front of every heater in some  cases on the side you’re going to find  what’s called a rating plate it’s the  sticker here that explains pretty much  everything about the unit in this case  it’s an or it’s n 0 8 4 2 M C DV now in  today’s model number it’s the same as  their NRC 111 DB so that exact same  model but the important note on that is  every unit has its own different  procedure every brand is different like  for instance with Norwich we leave them  plugged in and powered on we simply turn  the gas off some of the other brands  like Renee I think they want the power  off and everything off and so on so it’s  important to check with the manufacturer  you can call their technical support  line any of the manufacturers and tell  them that you want to do your D scaling  on your tankless system and they’ll  email you a PDF with their preferred  methods and so on anyway in our case  we’ve got the Nords this particular  model is from 2009.

If you look on the  rating plate a serial number will tell  you some of the things that you need to  know for instance this in this case it  was manufactured in the seventh week of  2009  and BTUs and so on so I’ve done my  research I know that in this case the  procedure for descaling I’ve got my  tools together and we’re going to go  ahead and get started okay here are the  items you’re going to need to do the  descaling today we need a pump of some  sort and hoses and we’ll go over the  ingredients of our kit at the end of the  video if you want to make one like we  use they’re real simple buy the products  at the local box store I make my own  hoses you can buy just general washing  machine hoses that work just fine as  well playing distill white vinegar is  what we prefer manufacturers do  authorized the use of like CLR chemical  cleaner I don’t like that stuff myself  because it’s not food grade and the  vinegar is real simple to flush  biodegradable and all food grade vinegar  is is safer in my opinion I wouldn’t use  CLR in my own house so I’m certainly not  going to tell you to use it at yours and  then.

We need a big bucket a five-gallon  bucket vinegar wise I like to use at  least four gallons for stronger mix one  gallon just gets diluted down so fast  and so four gallons is great you can get  plain distilled white vinegar at your  local grocery store I get ours at Costco  because it’s about half price and you  can buy it by the pallet almost and we  do a lot of them so we buy a lot of it  in this particular case this particular  water heater happens to have the  isolation valves installed which makes  the task of descaling ultra simple I  strongly advise you to have isolation  valves installed on your tankless if you  don’t already have them you’ve got water  shutoffs for both cold and hot course  blue is cold red is hot we’ve got so we  can isolate the water heater from the  water source and then we’ve got these  full weight ports that will allow us to  open with the water often and hook our  hoses right to these little ports and  circulate our solution up and through  the machine and then back out this one  back into the bucket and that’s.

What  we’re going to do today without these  devices you’ll have to find a way to  shut the water off and then either  disconnect and hook your hoses right to  the inlet and outlets or so on that’s  why I say it’s so much easier with  isolation valves so for the sake of  today’s video keep in mind that you know  we’re going to make it look over simple  because it is when you have the  insulation levels okay step one in this  process is to turn the gas off find the  gas Inlet on the bottom of the heater  it’s on the far right and you can see  the yellow supply line there leading  over to the rigid gas pipe follow that  back to when we find the valve in this  case it has a blue handle  perpendicular with the pipe is off as  with any ball type valve next we want to  shut the cold water inlet off and also  the hot out valve these are the wing  valve so they’re both turned again  crossways with the pipe perpendicular is  off in line is on crossways is off once.

We have the water’s turned off I like to  relieve the pressure off of the unit by  tripping the manual release lever of the  temperature and pressure relief valve or  in this case just the pressure relief  valve that’s the little device on the  side the little handle here is  spring-loaded if we open that with the  water off it lets the pressure off of  the system and let’s any water drain  that way when when we open the rest of  the caps up  I’ve got my submersible pump down in the  bucket already and I’ve got the female  and attaching to the pump in my hand  here and I’m going to go ahead and  install it here on the inlet port or the  blue port on the right hand  isolation valve and make sure it’s good  and tight make sure there’s a good  washer in there too we do need to seal  that then we can open this valve up and  we’ll do the same thing on the  red-handled valve and run the end of  that hose into the bucket the hose on  the red-handled side is the one that’s  just open on the end there’s no other  fitting so that goes down into the  bucket now we can close the lever on the  temperature or the pressure relief valve  close it off.

So now we’re sealed off and  it’s time to add our vinegar to the  bucket and get this project rolling you  can see the water dribbling down the  clear hoses that’s just water that’s  draining back down out of the water  heater now since the water supplies are  off that’s normal  okay my buckets full of vinegar I’ve got  the hoses in the submersible pump is  down there in the bottom I’ve got my  valves in the proper position and now  it’s just a matter of plugging in the  pump and away we go  now the Nora tater since the gas is off  it’s still going to try to fire it’s  trying to fire now it’s going to try  three times and then it’s going to error  code 11 and that’s what we want that  opens the solenoid valve inside which  lets the water flow freely so we’re  pumping away here and as if you can hear  it the heater is going through its  three-and-out sequence here and soon we  should see an error code 11 on the  controller  and if you can read that there are quote  11 just as predicted don’t reset the  machine just leave everything as is  we’ve the power on and leave the  controller in this configuration once.

I  get everything rolling here what I like  to do and believe me I learn this the  hard way I like to take a little piece  of wire or string or something and tie  the return hose just to the bail on the  on the bucket or some something some  otherwise secure that hose down into the  bucket  it’s an unsavory experience when you’ve  got 4 gallons of distilled white vinegar  all over the customers floor all over  your floor all over the carpet and so on  so take my word for it and now we let  the machine do its thing for about an  hour a minimum of one hour well we’re  about a half hour into our descaling and  as you can see the vinegar solution  takes on kind of a blue tint and that’s  all that scale that it’s taking off the  interior of the pipe way of the heat  exchanger and in some cases I’ve seen it  turn real real dark green in extreme  cases but most of the cases here are in  and around the Seattle area we have  really good water quality here this is  what it will look like here I suspect in  other parts of the country where you  have a higher line and mineral content  you know you can see all varying stages  of color and your solution as the as the  process moves forward Google while we’re  descaling and letting the pump do its  thing.

Preparing your Home for Sale

If you are considering selling your home there are many things you can do to improve your chances of getting top dollar for it.

Before seriously considering buying your home, a prospective buyer looks at many different things. It must be in a good neighborhood within reasonable commuting distance. He must like the architectural style, floor plan, size, and the number of bedrooms and bathrooms. The yard must be the right size and the landscaping must be sufficiently attractive. If all of these items are satisfactory, he will begin to move in the direction of making a purchase. His decision to purchase will be based on both emotional and intellectual factors. He will have to have a level of trust in your home.

You want the buyer to quickly build trust in your home. You can do this by addressing visible and hidden repair issues even before you put your home on the market. A torn carpet or leaky faucet will give the impression that your house is not well cared for. If the buyer spots a few defects, he will be looking out for more. If the paint is fresh and the finishes inside your home are unblemished, the buyer will tend to assume that your structural, plumbing, and mechanical systems are also well maintained.

Making a Complete List

The buyer will view your house with a critical eye; he and his real estate agent do not have the comfortable, warm personal memories that you have with your home. You may know that the leaky faucet only needs a $10 part, but he may see a $100 plumbing bill. Pretend you are a prospective buyer and walk through each room of your house. What will a buyer see? What will he feel?

The next step is to make a complete list of repairs that need to be done. A handyman can probably fix them all in a few days. It would be most efficient to have them all done at one time. Some clients, of course, market their houses as fixer-uppers, and some buyers are looking for this type of house, but they expect a substantial profit above the cost of labor and materials. When needed repairs are obvious, buyers always assume there are more problems that cannot be seen. It is better to fix minor repairs before marketing your home if you want your house to sell quickly and at a high price.

Fixing Small Problems in Home

If your home have some minor issues, like broken furniture, rough bathroom, clogged toilets etc. then your home price will be lower for sure due to these small issues. Make sure to fix all problems in your home specially bathrooms. A good toilet always a necessary thing in a good house. Check some great quality toilets on

Getting an Inspection

Sellers often have a professional inspection of their home conducted before putting it on the market. This way, they can discover repair issues that could come up later on the buyer’s inspection report. If you get this done early, you can address the repair issues at your own pace and without the involvement of a buyer. You can also choose which items you will repair. Since building code requirements change from time to time, various items may not be up to code. Your handrails may not be of the proper height, your stairway may not be the right dimensions, or the spacing between balusters may be incorrect. You may choose to leave these items as they are, noting this on the inspection report along with the items you did have repaired. This would be attached to the Seller’s Disclosure. It’s also a good idea to attach any repair receipts to the report. A professional inspection report will answer many of the buyer’s questions and build trust in your home. It also helps avoid re-negotiations after the contract has been signed.

Offering a Service Contract

A home service contract or home warranty covers the cost of specified repairs to mechanical, plumbing, and electrical systems during the first year of new ownership. The policy costs about $350, but it may be more if you have a pool or other items. The fee is paid to a third-party warranty company that will provide any needed repair services during the first year. Such a policy protects the interests of both the buyer and seller, as it reduces after-sale disputes about the condition of the property.